Valpolicella, Amarone Le Vigne di San Pietro

Sergio and Franca Nerozzi bought Le Vigne di San Pietro in 1980, a beautifully situated 4 hectare vineyard in the 'commune' of Sommacampagna, just to the west of Verona. A few kilometres from the house, between Sommacampagna and Custoza, they have a second, 6 hectare, parcel. Unfortunately, both Sergio and Franca died in the early 1990s, and their son Carlo took over the running of the estate. In 2006, Carlo formed a partnership with Giovanni Boscaini, whose family had owned the well-known producers Masi. Today Carlo and Giovanni jointly own the company. Giovanni has two vineyards in Valpolicella, one of 4 hectares at Valgatara (120 metres a.s.l.), and another of 6 hectares at Moron (250 metres a.s.l), which he is about to start clearing and planting. This will come on stream in 2014.
The wines are extremely pure and elegant, with bright, clearly defined fruit and real finesse. Very much a case of 'Yes, please, I'd love another glass!'

The Custoza, a blend of Garganega, Trebbiano, Cortese and Tocai, has a delicious earthy quality, and perhaps more weight than the Soaves from Tessari. The Bardolino is silky and spicy, and may be slightly chilled, which is how it was served when
I visited San Pietro for the first time, this August.
The Valpolicella has a touch more depth, but is every bit as enjoyable.
The Ripasso is perfectly balanced and very classy, with no bolted-on chocolate/cherry flavours as is the case with so many Ripasso wines.

The Amarone is - as it should be - a much heavier wine, but the purity of the San Pietro style still sings out from the glass, thanks in no small part to the sage counsel of oenologist Federico Giotto, who - unlike so many of his better known colleagues - doesn't stamp his own personality on the wines he helps make, but, rather, uncovers the wines' own characteristics and terroir. The Amarone is also extremely good value for money. The last red, Refolà, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) and Merlot (10%), but still remains intensely and unmistakeably Italian, with almost Barolo-like undertones of seaweed and violets. It goes very well with spicy foods, especially Indian cuisine. Duecuori, 100% Moscato Giallo, is a tribute to Carlo's parents: sweet but not cloying, it is delicious as a digestif or 'vino da meditazione', and would be perfect with lemon polenta cake.

Quantities available this year are distressingly small, as they had already made their allocations for 2010, but we will do better when the new vintage becomes available next May.

Wines

www.levignedisanpietro.it

< Back to previous page

Print this page