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Soave Cantina Tessari
Soave Cantina Tessari
Aldo Tessari started working in the sixties on his father's one
hectare of vines, situated in the heart of the Soave Classico zone.
Since then, he has built up the family estate to a total of twelve
hectares across the three hills of Costalta, Magnavacche and
Castellaro. Years of back-breaking work were involved, as Aldo had
to clear the steep hillsides by hand, breaking up the stones with a
pickaxe, and with only his trusty mule to help him. He was
eventually joined by his two sons, Germano and Antonio, and - most
recently - by his daughter Cornelia, who runs the administrative
side of the family concern. In 2007, they completed the
construction of a beautifully designed, ultra-smart and ultra
efficient winery.
They have no vineyards higher than 120 metres, since Aldo firmly
believes that Garganega cannot thrive at higher altitudes, and
doesn't ripen properly. This clearly sets him against one or two
well-known names in the appellation! He is equally firm on two
other points: Garganega is the grape for the region, and stainless
steel the best means of capturing and preserving the
fruit, vivacity and minerality of that grape.
So no wood at all in their cellars, apart from an impressive
staircase that leads up to an office and to a smaller
tasting/dining room - where Cornelia cooks a mean risotto.
They make only four wines (again, no tearing off in every possible
vinous direction for Aldo Tessari). Everything is hand-picked, and
every single wine displays impressive elegance and delicious
minerality. Grisela, a Soave Classico, whose surprisingly deep
colour quite belies its delicious, lively freshness; Le Bine
Longhe, a cru from the hillside of Costalta, with lovely balance
and deep minerality; a Recioto di Soave, Tre Colli, the grapes for
which are selected by Aldo and his children at the very beginning
of the harvest, and which are then left to dry ('appasimento') for
five months on the top floor of the winery; and lastly, a
Charmat-method 100% Garganega sparkling wine, which is gently
biscuity but still displays the hallmark Tessari elegance and
minerality.
Wines
www.cantinatessari.com